Crystal 4T™ · BE.'s selection standard

Crystal Grading: How BE. Grades Every Stone (Crystal 4T™)

Crystal grading has no single industry-wide standard. BE. uses Crystal 4T™ to score Transparency, Tone, Texture and Treasure from 1 to 5 against published criteria. The lowest material score sets the tier: 3 for Studio and 4 for Signature. Heritage requires 5 in all four readings. Three material scores of 5 with a lower Treasure score make Signature. A score below 3 in Transparency, Tone or Texture means rejection.

Read the four readings
4readings, each scored 1 to 5
3tiers · Studio, Signature, Heritage
≈ 1 in 5stones offered to BE. get through
≈ 1 in 50is Heritage

In one paragraph

A stone enters BE. only if it is untreated or its heating is declared, and its country of origin is known. It is then read four ways, each scored 1 to 5. Anything at 2 or below on Transparency, Tone or Texture is sent back. The lowest of those three readings names the piece: Standard makes a Studio piece, Strong a Signature piece, and three Exceptionals with an Exceptional Treasure make Heritage. About one stone in five gets through.

Entry

01Nothing is scored until it passes entry.

Crystal 4T™ is a studio standard. No laboratory issues it. Before any reading is taken, the material has to clear three conditions.

  • 01No dye, coating, filling or artificial irradiation.Material treated this way does not enter.
  • 02Heat is declared, or it does not enter.Heated material enters only when the treatment is stated on the Stone Origin Record and on the product page. It cannot be Heritage.
  • 03A country of origin, at least.Material with no country-level source information does not enter.

Material that fails entry goes back to the supplier.

Four readings

02Four questions. Each answered 1 to 5.

Transparency, Tone and Texture describe the material in hand. Treasure describes how difficult that material is to obtain at this quality, size and colour.

1 and 2 are below standard. 3 is Standard. 4 is Strong. 5 is Exceptional. Product pages and the Stone Origin Record show the word; the number stays internal.

A reading word describes one property of one stone. A tier name describes the finished piece. Readings are Standard, Strong or Exceptional. Pieces are Studio, Signature or Heritage.

READING 1 OF 4

Transparency

Transparency measures how light passes through a bead and how clearly its internal features can be seen; opaque materials are assessed by surface lustre and optical effects.

Read with the unaided eye at wearing distance, about 40 cm, against a white card under daylight-balanced light. 10× magnification only confirms what the eye has found.

Transparency, read 5 to 1
  • Amethyst bead, Transparency 5 of 55ExceptionalLight passes through freely. No clouding or fracturing visible at wearing distance. Under 10×, internal features are absent or minor.
  • Amethyst bead, Transparency 4 of 54StrongLight passes through. Slight clouding is difficult to see at wearing distance and confirmed under 10×.
  • Amethyst bead, Transparency 3 of 53StandardLight passes through most of the bead. Clouding is noticeable on close inspection but does not dominate at wearing distance.
  • Amethyst bead, Transparency 2 of 52Below standardClouding or fracturing is obvious at wearing distance on a large share of the strand.
  • Amethyst bead, Transparency 1 of 51Below standardCloudy or opaque throughout.

Amethyst under the same light. Each bead sits beside the reading it earns. 2 and 1 are sent back.

READING 2 OF 4

Tone

Tone assesses colour saturation and depth within each bead, plus colour consistency across the strand, against the natural colour of that variety.

Each variety is judged against its own natural colour. A naturally deep colour and a naturally light colour can both score 5. The question is whether the colour is full for that variety. Depth on its own decides nothing. Crystal 4T™ does not rank one hue above another.

Tone, read 5 to 1
  • Amethyst bead, Tone 5 of 55ExceptionalSaturation is vivid, the full colour of the variety, neither washed out nor dulled. Depth is even within each bead. No variation between beads is visible at wearing distance.
  • Amethyst bead, Tone 4 of 54StrongSaturation is strong. Depth is even within each bead. Slight variation between beads is difficult to see at wearing distance.
  • Amethyst bead, Tone 3 of 53StandardSaturation is moderately strong. Depth may vary slightly within a bead. Variation between beads is noticeable on close inspection but does not break the strand at wearing distance.
  • Amethyst bead, Tone 2 of 52Below standardSaturation is weak: the colour reads washed out or dulled on a large share of the strand, or variation between beads is obvious at wearing distance.
  • Amethyst bead, Tone 1 of 51Below standardSaturation is very weak or absent: the variety cannot be identified by its colour at wearing distance.
Tone, the whole strand
Amethyst strand with consistent colour between beads
Reads 5.Colour holds from bead to bead at wearing distance.
Amethyst strand with uneven colour between beads
Reads 2.Variation between beads is obvious at wearing distance. Sent back.

The second half of the reading: the same beads, strung as two strands.

READING 3 OF 4

Texture

Texture assesses the finished bead through surface polish, drill-hole condition, roundness and diameter consistency across the strand.

Read under 10× magnification, and confirmed with the unaided eye. The same reading for every material.

Texture, read 5 to 1
  • 5ExceptionalNo pits, scratches or drill-hole chipping under 10×. Beads are uniform in roundness and diameter.
  • 4StrongMinor pits or drill-hole chipping are difficult to see under 10× and not visible to the unaided eye. Beads are uniform in roundness and diameter.
  • 3StandardMinor polishing faults or drill-hole chipping are noticeable under 10× but not visible to the unaided eye. Slight variation in diameter may be present.
  • 2Below standardDull patches, grinding marks or rough drill holes are visible to the unaided eye.
  • 1Below standardFractures, chips or pitting are visible to the unaided eye.
Texture, the four checks under 10×. Best on the left, faulty on the right.
  • Amethyst bead with mirror polish
    5 · Mirror
    Amethyst bead with dull polish
    3 · Drag lines
    PolishMirror finish across the whole bead, against drag lines and dull patches seen under 10×.
  • Clean drill hole
    5 · Clean bore
    Chipped drill hole
    2 · Chipped
    Drill holeA clean, centred bore, against chipping at the entry that the unaided eye can see.
  • Clean bead surface
    5 · Clean
    Bead surface with fractures
    2 · Fractured
    SurfaceNo pits or scratches under 10×, against fractures visible to the unaided eye.
  • Four beads: round, flattened, flat spot, undersized
    Round · flattened · flat spot · runs small
    Roundness and diameterA true sphere at the strand's diameter, against a flattened bead, a flat spot, and one that runs small.

READING 4 OF 4

Treasure

Treasure scores how difficult a material is to obtain at a given quality, bead size and colour, using BE.'s supply records.

Assigned from BE.'s supply record for the variety, size and colour. The individual strand does not change it. Source and treatment are recorded separately on the Stone Origin Record and are not scored. There is no photograph for this reading: it comes from the record, and the eye cannot check it.

Treasure, read 5 to 1
  • 5ExceptionalSupply depends on a particular find. When a lot sells out, material of the same quality may not be available again for years, or at all.
  • 4StrongMaterial of this quality is uncommon: only a small part of each parcel reaches this standard, or few sources can supply it. Restocking takes time and is not guaranteed.
  • 3StandardMaterial of this quality is restocked within a normal buying cycle.
  • 2Below standardCommodity material, available in quantity at any time.
  • 1Below standardNot stocked by BE.

Tiers

03The lowest material reading sets the tier.

Take the lowest of Transparency, Tone and Texture. That reading names the piece. Treasure never lowers a tier. It matters only for Heritage.

Tier

Studio

The lowest material reading is Standard.

LOWEST = 3

Tier

Signature

The lowest material reading is Strong.

LOWEST = 4

Tier

Heritage

All three material readings are Exceptional, and Treasure is Exceptional too. If Treasure is 4 or below, the piece is Signature.

ALL 5 + TREASURE 5

Four worked examples · Transparency, Tone, Texture, then Treasure

  • 4 · 4 · 3 + T 5The lowest material reading is 3, so the piece is Studio.
  • 5 · 5 · 4 + T 5The lowest material reading is 4, so the piece is Signature.
  • 5 · 5 · 5 + T 4All three material readings are 5, but Treasure is not, so the piece is Signature.
  • 5 · 5 · 5 + T 5The piece is Heritage.

Why two sets of words

A reading word describes one property of one stone. A tier name describes the finished piece. A piece is never called Strong, and a reading is never called Signature. Keeping the two apart means "Strong" on a Record always refers to one reading, and "Signature" always refers to the whole piece.

Rejection

04About four in five stones do not get through.

A stone that scores 2 or below on Transparency, Tone or Texture is rejected. It is not made up, and it is not sold under a lower tier. Material that fails entry goes back to the supplier.

These figures are BE.'s own estimate from years of buying. They are not a statistic. They describe the material offered to BE. The pieces on sale are counted separately.

Rejected

≈ 80%of all material offered

Studio

≈ 10%of all offered · half of what enters

Signature

≈ 8%of all offered · four in ten of what enters

Heritage

≈ 2%of all offered · one in ten of what enters
  • ≈ 80%of all offeredRejectedFails entry, or scores 2 or below on a material reading.
  • ≈ 10%50% of enteredStudioThe lowest material reading is Standard.
  • ≈ 8%40% of enteredSignatureAll three material readings are Strong or better.
  • ≈ 2%10% of enteredHeritageAll three material readings are Exceptional. Occurs only in varieties whose Treasure is Exceptional.

Of every hundred stones offered to BE., about twenty enter. Ten become Studio, eight Signature, two Heritage.

RejectedStudioSignatureHeritage

Material types

05A 5 means the best this material can show.

Texture and Treasure are read the same way for every material. Transparency and Tone are read against the reference for the material type: rose quartz is not asked to be as clear as amethyst, and obsidian is not asked to transmit light at all.

When a strand mixes two materials, each is read by its own type. The strand takes the lower readings.

Type A

Transparent single crystals

Clear quartz · amethyst · citrine · smoky quartz · blue smoky quartz · aquamarine · kyanite · and garnet that transmits light

Transparency

Light through the whole bead and the absence of clouding. A 5 is fully transparent. A 3 shows light haze that is difficult to see at wearing distance. A 2 shows cloud that is obvious at wearing distance.

Tone

Saturation, depth and evenness against the variety reference.

Amethyst · Transparency

Amethyst bead, Transparency 5 of 5
5Fully transparent. The reference for this type.
Amethyst bead, Transparency 4 of 5
4Slight haze, difficult to see at wearing distance.
Amethyst bead, Transparency 3 of 5
3Light haze, noticeable on close inspection.

Amethyst · Tone

Amethyst bead, Tone 5 of 5
5Vivid purple, even within the bead.
Amethyst bead, Tone 4 of 5
4Strong purple, slightly lighter.
Amethyst bead, Tone 3 of 5
3Moderate purple, depth varies a little within the bead.

The full five-step ladder for both readings is shown in section 02.

Type A2

Naturally translucent single crystals

Rose quartz · moonstone

Transparency

These materials are translucent by nature and never fully transparent. A 5 is the clearest the material reaches, with no milky patches. A 3 shows small milky patches on close inspection. A 2 shows patches that are obvious at wearing distance.

Tone

Saturation and evenness. Moonstone's sheen is read under Tone.

Rose quartz · Transparency

Rose quartz bead, Transparency 5 of 5
5The clearest this material reaches. No milky patches.
Rose quartz bead, Transparency 4 of 5
4A faint milky patch, difficult to see at wearing distance.
Rose quartz bead, Transparency 3 of 5
3Small milky patches, visible on close inspection.

Rose quartz · Tone

Rose quartz bead, Tone 5 of 5
5Full pink for the variety, even across the bead.
Rose quartz bead, Tone 4 of 5
4Slightly lighter, still even.
Rose quartz bead, Tone 3 of 5
3Pale, at the lower limit for the variety.

Type B

Included crystals

Rutilated quartz · green rutilated quartz · hematoid quartz · Koi phantom quartz · green and emerald phantom · Super Seven

Transparency

The clarity of the host crystal, and whether the inclusions can be read sharply through it. Haze or cloud around the inclusions lowers the score. The inclusions themselves do not. A 5 shows the inclusions sharp through a clear host. A 3 shows some haze around the inclusions on close inspection. A 2 shows the inclusions blurred at wearing distance.

Tone

The colour of the inclusions and their contrast against the host, together with their definition and arrangement: sharp needles, clear phantom layers, an even distribution across the strand.

Rutilated quartz · Transparency

Rutilated quartz bead, Transparency 5 of 5
5Needles read sharply through a clear host.
Rutilated quartz bead, Transparency 4 of 5
4Needles sharp, a trace of haze around them.
Rutilated quartz bead, Transparency 3 of 5
3Haze around the needles, seen on close inspection.

Rutilated quartz · Tone

Rutilated quartz bead, Tone 5 of 5
5Bright gold needles, strong contrast against the host.
Rutilated quartz bead, Tone 4 of 5
4Gold a little duller, contrast still clear.
Rutilated quartz bead, Tone 3 of 5
3Needles pale and greyed, contrast weak.

Type C

Translucent aggregates

Prehnite · chalcedony · agate

Transparency

How much light passes through the bead. A 5 lets light through the whole bead. A 3 lets light through at the edge only. A 2 lets almost none through.

Tone

Colour and the evenness of banding or layering.

Prehnite · Transparency

Prehnite bead, Transparency 5 of 5
5Light passes through the whole bead.
Prehnite bead, Transparency 4 of 5
4Light passes through most of the bead.
Prehnite bead, Transparency 3 of 5
3Light passes at the edge only.

Type D

Opaque and optical-effect stones

Gold sheen obsidian · tiger's eye · lapis · dark garnet

Transparency

Read as surface light response: lustre and the strength of the optical effect, such as sheen or chatoyancy. A 5 shows the effect on every bead at wearing distance. A 3 shows it on most beads on close inspection. A 2 shows it on few beads or not at all.

Tone

Purity of the body colour and the colour of the optical effect.

Gold sheen obsidian · Transparency

Gold sheen obsidian bead, Transparency 5 of 5
5The sheen covers the bead and reads at wearing distance.
Gold sheen obsidian bead, Transparency 4 of 5
4The sheen covers most of the bead.
Gold sheen obsidian bead, Transparency 3 of 5
3The sheen is narrow and needs an angle to find.

What is recorded

06The Stone Origin Record carries the evidence.

Every reading is taken under the same conditions: daylight-balanced light at 5500 K over a white reference card, the unaided eye at about 40 cm for Transparency and Tone, 10× magnification for Texture, and BE.'s reference for each variety. What comes out of it is written on the Record.

01

Lot reference

The lot the beads came from.

02

Material identity

Mineral name and variety.

03

Four readings, as words

Transparency, Tone, Texture and Treasure.

04

Tier

Studio, Signature or Heritage.

05

Source

At the level verified for that lot: country, region or deposit. Recorded as a fact. Not scored.

06

Treatment status

Recorded as a fact. Not scored.

How far the Record reaches

Sourcing disclosure can be read on five levels, from nothing a buyer can check to a documented chain from the mine to the individual piece. BE. works at Level 3: every piece ships with its own numbered Stone Origin Record, carrying the country, treatment status and Crystal 4T™ grading of its lot. Level 4, a documented chain from the mine to the individual piece, is the next step.

  1. Level 0

    No checkable information

    Silence, or “ethically sourced” with no place.

  2. Level 1

    Named country

    Stated at brand level.

  3. Level 2

    Batch lot published

    The lot number is on the listing.

  4. Level 3 · BE.

    Per-piece record

    A numbered record for each piece, with its lot's country, treatment and grading.

  5. Level 4 · next

    Mine-to-piece chain

    Every stage documented, from the mine to the piece.

What Crystal 4T™ is not

07A selection standard, published.

It is BE.'s own selection standard, published so that anyone can see how stones are chosen and tiered.

  • —It is not a gemmological identification and does not replace a laboratory report.
  • —It does not grade faceted gemstones.
  • —It makes no claim about future value.

Ten checks you can run on any strand before you buy: the BE. Stone Buying Checklist.

Crystal grading questions

Is there a crystal grading system?

Crystal grading has no single industry-wide standard. BE. publishes Crystal 4T™ criteria for Transparency, Tone, Texture and Treasure, with each reading scored from 1 to 5.

What is grade A crystal?

Grade A is a seller-defined quality label. Its criteria vary between sellers. Ask for the grading criteria, treatment status and photographs of the actual material.

How does BE. grade its stones?

BE. scores Transparency, Tone, Texture and Treasure from 1 to 5. Transparency and Tone are read under daylight-balanced light against a white card. Texture is checked under 10× magnification. Treasure comes from supply records.

Is Crystal 4T™ an industry standard?

Crystal 4T™ is BE.'s registered grading system. Its published criteria govern selection at BE. Industry-wide adoption is not implied.

What are the Studio, Signature and Heritage thresholds?

The lowest score in Transparency, Tone and Texture sets the tier: 3 gives Studio and 4 gives Signature. Heritage requires all four readings to score 5. If all three material scores are 5 and Treasure is lower, the piece is Signature. Any material score below 3 means rejection.